Ok, they are 100k thermistors, I have chosen the correct ones in the firmware, don't worry ;)
The swings aren't wild/quick btw, it's just constant, and then suddenly it drops without stopping the drop it very slow and very constant.
Here a video of that one magical moment when the machine worked for once:
[youtu.be]
Update:
Re-set the original Marlin PID settings, re-wired the heatbed, and the PSU wires, added a nice 'panic button' to the front of the machine, put a layer of tape on top of the printbed and am now heating up the hotend. It seems promising, but I am not testing it with the hotbed on yet, for now it has gone from 20 to 115 degrees in a minute. Hope it keeps going up that quick after 165 degrees.
Update 2:
Ok, I am now 27.64% into printing a isocahedron, bed temp 80º and hotend temp 205.8º
Didn't test if I could get the bed temp higher, the hotend temp tends to go between 203º and 206º which is an ok temp swing for me atm.
The only problem is that the first layer didn't adhere that well (adding a tape surface didn't work so well after all I guess...) so it will probably let go of the surface during printing. And I really set the heatbed well! Four times I checked all corners with a thin piece of paper inbetween. At school we have a Replicator x2 and I calibrate it a lot for the guys over there, the machine is overrated though. Better have a self-built machine where you understand what the machine does instead of having a machine being brought to you that doesn't do it's job flawlessly.
Oh, and I also taped the heatbed thermistor onto the bottom of the heatbed instead of having is in the gap in the middle, so it has less wear & tear when I level the heatbed up and down for print hight calibration.
Hotend hasn't jammed yet, and I'm at 40.02% of printing now.
Temperature seems stable.
Oh! And also cleaned out the hobbed wheel with aceton, the ribs in the pin were completely gunked with ABS scrapings because the hotend kept on jamming before.
Fingers crossed!
Update 3:
Worked! BUT, now it seems the hotend is getting hotter than before. It says: 205º, but is looks more like 230º, bridging a gap in my isocahedron worked before, but now the ABS was too hot to do it so it formed a dent on top because the ABS was too warm.
Will try again to print tomorrow with lower temperature settings. Maybe 200º for ABS printing. Also the shape seemed much harder to remove from the printbed, which gives me hope.
Final update #4:
Video!
[www.youtube.com]
Cefiar Wrote:
-------------------------------------------------------
> Silly q: What thermistors are you using on the hot
> end & the bed (aka what did you choose in the
> marlin config)?
>
> I doubt this is the issue, but could some of this
> be caused by the granularity of the thermistor
> tables?
>
> Basically, if the thermistor can't provide a
> fairly close bunch of readings around the target
> temps, then PID control can't be very responsive,
> which could lead to wild swings in temp.
>
> Knowing what thermistors you've selected will help
> in determining if it could be something like that.
The swings aren't wild/quick btw, it's just constant, and then suddenly it drops without stopping the drop it very slow and very constant.
Here a video of that one magical moment when the machine worked for once:
[youtu.be]
Update:
Re-set the original Marlin PID settings, re-wired the heatbed, and the PSU wires, added a nice 'panic button' to the front of the machine, put a layer of tape on top of the printbed and am now heating up the hotend. It seems promising, but I am not testing it with the hotbed on yet, for now it has gone from 20 to 115 degrees in a minute. Hope it keeps going up that quick after 165 degrees.
Update 2:
Ok, I am now 27.64% into printing a isocahedron, bed temp 80º and hotend temp 205.8º
Didn't test if I could get the bed temp higher, the hotend temp tends to go between 203º and 206º which is an ok temp swing for me atm.
The only problem is that the first layer didn't adhere that well (adding a tape surface didn't work so well after all I guess...) so it will probably let go of the surface during printing. And I really set the heatbed well! Four times I checked all corners with a thin piece of paper inbetween. At school we have a Replicator x2 and I calibrate it a lot for the guys over there, the machine is overrated though. Better have a self-built machine where you understand what the machine does instead of having a machine being brought to you that doesn't do it's job flawlessly.
Oh, and I also taped the heatbed thermistor onto the bottom of the heatbed instead of having is in the gap in the middle, so it has less wear & tear when I level the heatbed up and down for print hight calibration.
Hotend hasn't jammed yet, and I'm at 40.02% of printing now.
Temperature seems stable.
Oh! And also cleaned out the hobbed wheel with aceton, the ribs in the pin were completely gunked with ABS scrapings because the hotend kept on jamming before.
Fingers crossed!
Update 3:
Worked! BUT, now it seems the hotend is getting hotter than before. It says: 205º, but is looks more like 230º, bridging a gap in my isocahedron worked before, but now the ABS was too hot to do it so it formed a dent on top because the ABS was too warm.
Will try again to print tomorrow with lower temperature settings. Maybe 200º for ABS printing. Also the shape seemed much harder to remove from the printbed, which gives me hope.
Final update #4:
Video!
[www.youtube.com]
Cefiar Wrote:
-------------------------------------------------------
> Silly q: What thermistors are you using on the hot
> end & the bed (aka what did you choose in the
> marlin config)?
>
> I doubt this is the issue, but could some of this
> be caused by the granularity of the thermistor
> tables?
>
> Basically, if the thermistor can't provide a
> fairly close bunch of readings around the target
> temps, then PID control can't be very responsive,
> which could lead to wild swings in temp.
>
> Knowing what thermistors you've selected will help
> in determining if it could be something like that.