For now I have discovered that the thermistor is seriously giving out too low readings, this can also be due to the construction of the hotend, so I blame that, not just because it's easy to blame the hotend, but also just because the designer of the hotend has no sense of detail.
When I print ABS at 195 *in pronterface* the real temperature is higher because I can print just fine from 185 to 200 degrees celsius.
Also, when I am printing on a lower hotend temperature, I can even manage to get the heatbed to 90 degrees. After the current print I will try to even up the temp on the heatbed.
Currently printing this thing and the print is at 22.11% now and still going well, except the corners broke free from the print bed because I didn't turn on the heatbed.. I forgot. So now I turned it on during printing and goes to 90 degrees with no problem without having the hotend temp drop.
[www.thingiverse.com]
I have found an old tube of 'Curil' and will try to improve my hotend with that stuff later today. It is a liquid seal for engine blocks, I used to work a lot with four-stroke honda engines and tune, repair and revision them. Curil can hold a seal tight until 180º celsius, but it withstands temperatures well over that. Since I am not using it to seal my engine I will see if it has other usable properties and smear it on the aluminium block of my hotend. I have ordered two new hotends which will arrive somewhere next week so I have time to experiment and mess up my current hotend ;)
When I print ABS at 195 *in pronterface* the real temperature is higher because I can print just fine from 185 to 200 degrees celsius.
Also, when I am printing on a lower hotend temperature, I can even manage to get the heatbed to 90 degrees. After the current print I will try to even up the temp on the heatbed.
Currently printing this thing and the print is at 22.11% now and still going well, except the corners broke free from the print bed because I didn't turn on the heatbed.. I forgot. So now I turned it on during printing and goes to 90 degrees with no problem without having the hotend temp drop.
[www.thingiverse.com]
I have found an old tube of 'Curil' and will try to improve my hotend with that stuff later today. It is a liquid seal for engine blocks, I used to work a lot with four-stroke honda engines and tune, repair and revision them. Curil can hold a seal tight until 180º celsius, but it withstands temperatures well over that. Since I am not using it to seal my engine I will see if it has other usable properties and smear it on the aluminium block of my hotend. I have ordered two new hotends which will arrive somewhere next week so I have time to experiment and mess up my current hotend ;)