As far as I can tell, initial confusion in that thread was caused by assuming the Makerbot pinout has Pin 1 at the "top", in fact according to Makerbot schematic Pin 1 is at the "bottom" on their board, and this convention seems to have been reliably followed by all the clone boards as well. Although for some reason they like to remove legends from the silkscreen and wire cables with pin 1 in opposite place to normal convention.
Unfortunately concepts like "pin 1" and "top" and "bottom" are highly flexible, so we should never assume any orientation. There are some Molex connectors that have official drawings which show pin 1 location being in different places on the plug and receptacle in the same series. Obviously this is confusing, but the response from Molex was basically "it is up to the customer to designate circuit ordering". In some drawings I see they no longer call it pin 1, but something like "reference mark".
But anyway, if you have buzzed out the switch, or even powered from a battery and checked it is working, it is probably a configuration issue in the firmware. There are usually a generous number of options, you need to specify whether it is a min or max switch, enable internal pullups, probably enable "inverted endstop" since the signal is active when 0V.
Checking RAMPS-FD v2, I realize that we have adopted a PCB layout compatible with a 4 pin connector, but signals in different order. I wonder if it is a good idea to match the Makerbot pin out, as it seems to be the closest thing to a standard? There is still an issue with polarity, but at least you could make a straight 4 wire cable.
Unfortunately concepts like "pin 1" and "top" and "bottom" are highly flexible, so we should never assume any orientation. There are some Molex connectors that have official drawings which show pin 1 location being in different places on the plug and receptacle in the same series. Obviously this is confusing, but the response from Molex was basically "it is up to the customer to designate circuit ordering". In some drawings I see they no longer call it pin 1, but something like "reference mark".
But anyway, if you have buzzed out the switch, or even powered from a battery and checked it is working, it is probably a configuration issue in the firmware. There are usually a generous number of options, you need to specify whether it is a min or max switch, enable internal pullups, probably enable "inverted endstop" since the signal is active when 0V.
Checking RAMPS-FD v2, I realize that we have adopted a PCB layout compatible with a 4 pin connector, but signals in different order. I wonder if it is a good idea to match the Makerbot pin out, as it seems to be the closest thing to a standard? There is still an issue with polarity, but at least you could make a straight 4 wire cable.