Except for the red heat-shrink tubing, that is exactly what I did. Since I didn't want solder on the other side interfering with my glass plate, I "surface mounted" the LED leads across both sets of LED terminals (makes a more rigid set-up), with the "flange" of the LED against the edge of the heated bed, so that the LED is poking out at right angles to the edge of the bed. And yes, it DOES work properly when power is applied.
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