Dc42: I just briefly looked into the CoreXY. It seems complicated using all those cables. I feel that lead screws would be much simpler (and also slower) then that design. I'm not really looking for maximum speed. Id prefer quality to speed.
Sheepdog43: Excellent post! Much appreciated. This is my first printer I would be building. I totally understand the fact that what seems like only a bit bigger snowballs into a lottabit bigger/more complicated thing very quickly. I enjoy learning about this so much. I have been trying to read everything I can but sometimes it's hard because I'm not totally fimiliar with the terminology used so I don't know exactly what words to search for to find what I'm looking for.
I have a manual mill (G0704 that I plan to convert to CNC), MIG, TIG and plasma cutter. I also have very high experience building/fabricating things from scratch. I built a custom intake manifold out of modified lower intake manifold and sheet aluminum for the engine in my Supra. I feel that the physical building of this printer is going to be far easier then nailing down a solid design. The real area I lack is the knowledge of the electronics nessisary for something like this. My build platform of 18x18x12 is not something I would be filling up with a massive single part. My primary hobby is cars. So the reason I want a large X&Y is so I can print out larger sections of dash panels or engine under covers. These parts are only 1/8 inch or so thick so I don't see it being the most time consuming thing to grow/print. Also these printer parts would likely turn into molds to create carbon fiber parts so the lack of temperature stability of the PLA vs ABS is not an issue. I would also be putting this in my workshop shed where my mill is and would probrably stick to printing PLA so smell wouldn't be an issue.
I forgot to mention that I will be building the frame of the printer and build platform out of aluminum extrusion. Prolly a mix of 1"x1" and 1.5"x1.5". I looked into the linear bearings for the aluminum extrusion but I think using the hardened shafts would be easier to level and align. It would also give access to cheaper linear bearings. Seems that most people have very good luck with the cheaper Chinese linear bearings. And there so cheap extras can be bought to swap out with a faulty or bad unit.
I would think that using lead screws would lower the output torque required by the stepper motors due to the increase in mechanical advantage over using a belt or cable to more directly drive the axis. I'm going to come up with a rough diagram of what I'm looking to build any maybe you guys can critique my design.
The only thing more fun to me then actually printing things that I 3d model is designing the 3d printer itself! I'm going to look into the smoothie board and the beagbone black that you mentioned.
Thanks again,
Dan.
Sheepdog43: Excellent post! Much appreciated. This is my first printer I would be building. I totally understand the fact that what seems like only a bit bigger snowballs into a lottabit bigger/more complicated thing very quickly. I enjoy learning about this so much. I have been trying to read everything I can but sometimes it's hard because I'm not totally fimiliar with the terminology used so I don't know exactly what words to search for to find what I'm looking for.
I have a manual mill (G0704 that I plan to convert to CNC), MIG, TIG and plasma cutter. I also have very high experience building/fabricating things from scratch. I built a custom intake manifold out of modified lower intake manifold and sheet aluminum for the engine in my Supra. I feel that the physical building of this printer is going to be far easier then nailing down a solid design. The real area I lack is the knowledge of the electronics nessisary for something like this. My build platform of 18x18x12 is not something I would be filling up with a massive single part. My primary hobby is cars. So the reason I want a large X&Y is so I can print out larger sections of dash panels or engine under covers. These parts are only 1/8 inch or so thick so I don't see it being the most time consuming thing to grow/print. Also these printer parts would likely turn into molds to create carbon fiber parts so the lack of temperature stability of the PLA vs ABS is not an issue. I would also be putting this in my workshop shed where my mill is and would probrably stick to printing PLA so smell wouldn't be an issue.
I forgot to mention that I will be building the frame of the printer and build platform out of aluminum extrusion. Prolly a mix of 1"x1" and 1.5"x1.5". I looked into the linear bearings for the aluminum extrusion but I think using the hardened shafts would be easier to level and align. It would also give access to cheaper linear bearings. Seems that most people have very good luck with the cheaper Chinese linear bearings. And there so cheap extras can be bought to swap out with a faulty or bad unit.
I would think that using lead screws would lower the output torque required by the stepper motors due to the increase in mechanical advantage over using a belt or cable to more directly drive the axis. I'm going to come up with a rough diagram of what I'm looking to build any maybe you guys can critique my design.
The only thing more fun to me then actually printing things that I 3d model is designing the 3d printer itself! I'm going to look into the smoothie board and the beagbone black that you mentioned.
Thanks again,
Dan.