There should be enough room around Q201 for an ordinary U-shaped bolt-on heatsink (Q201 is the FET for the heated bed). Something like [www.digikey.com.au] or [www.digikey.com.au] for instance. Note that these are guesses and I wouldn't recommend anyone buy them solely on the fact I've quoted them here - do some research on their dimensions before you buy anything.
Just watch that the bolt and/or heatsink isn't long enough to touch the FET next to it, as the case is the FETs Drain, which goes to the load in our setup. Shorting the Drain on Q201 to the Drain on Q203 (which is the one next to it, and is for Extruder 1) would mean switching on either will switch on both. You'd end up with weird behaviour and lots of current through whichever FET was active.
FWIW: Those FETs can really pull a fair bit of current, and they've got a very low Rds(on) which means a lot less heat during switching than compared to some other FETs used in say RAMPS. The FET specified has a max of 30V, but I wouldn't suggest running them over say 28V.
Note: The connectors on all outputs, with the exception of the heated bed, are 3.5mm pitch, and most of those connectors tend to have a rating of 6-8A, so I wouldn't suggest trying to draw more from them. The 5.08mm connectors used on the heated bed and on the voltage inputs are usually rated between 12-15A, so once again, unless you can find better connectors, this might end up being your limit. Also, if you're planning to draw more current, might be worth getting the boards made with a heavier weight copper clad than the usual 1oz.
Just watch that the bolt and/or heatsink isn't long enough to touch the FET next to it, as the case is the FETs Drain, which goes to the load in our setup. Shorting the Drain on Q201 to the Drain on Q203 (which is the one next to it, and is for Extruder 1) would mean switching on either will switch on both. You'd end up with weird behaviour and lots of current through whichever FET was active.
FWIW: Those FETs can really pull a fair bit of current, and they've got a very low Rds(on) which means a lot less heat during switching than compared to some other FETs used in say RAMPS. The FET specified has a max of 30V, but I wouldn't suggest running them over say 28V.
Note: The connectors on all outputs, with the exception of the heated bed, are 3.5mm pitch, and most of those connectors tend to have a rating of 6-8A, so I wouldn't suggest trying to draw more from them. The 5.08mm connectors used on the heated bed and on the voltage inputs are usually rated between 12-15A, so once again, unless you can find better connectors, this might end up being your limit. Also, if you're planning to draw more current, might be worth getting the boards made with a heavier weight copper clad than the usual 1oz.