Going to 2 ounce copper is the easy part. That's a standard enough process that the added cost is quite low in any sort of volume.
Connectors are always odd beasts. They are temperature rise rated and a lot depends on what the starting temp is for that rating. If they are rated for under hood auto use, you'll probably get a lot more out of them on a room temp / possibly forced air application. I've seen 25A connectors run quite successfully at 100A that way.... I've also seen a lot of connectors melt when the same math worked the other way around. None of that may apply in any way at all to these specific connectors. They may be running as hard as they can at 15A on an open board in a normal environment. No I would not expand the board for bigger connectors. They are not a bad part.
Just to be clear on where I'm going with this. There are 8"x12" and 10"x 12", 12V heated beds that get up around 20A or so. Yes 24V would be a *lot* better idea. No, I haven't bought one, 24V isn't that hard to do. There are others who might flip the same coin and make the 12V decision.
Connectors are always odd beasts. They are temperature rise rated and a lot depends on what the starting temp is for that rating. If they are rated for under hood auto use, you'll probably get a lot more out of them on a room temp / possibly forced air application. I've seen 25A connectors run quite successfully at 100A that way.... I've also seen a lot of connectors melt when the same math worked the other way around. None of that may apply in any way at all to these specific connectors. They may be running as hard as they can at 15A on an open board in a normal environment. No I would not expand the board for bigger connectors. They are not a bad part.
Just to be clear on where I'm going with this. There are 8"x12" and 10"x 12", 12V heated beds that get up around 20A or so. Yes 24V would be a *lot* better idea. No, I haven't bought one, 24V isn't that hard to do. There are others who might flip the same coin and make the 12V decision.