Hello RepRap Community!
The excitement is real, I have finally began building a 3D printer. However, after tackling many issues, I still have at least one left before doing a test print.
My current setup is:
-Prusa i2
-MK2 Heatbed
-550W Modified Computer Power Supply
-Sanguinololu Board (I believe 1.2 or 1.3)
-Marlin Firmware
-Geared Extruder
-Prusa Nozzle Hotend, 0.4 tip (stainless steel, see attached picture) .... or - [prusanozzle.org]
-3mm PLA Filament
-Arduino 0022
-Pronterface
[attachment 37029 20140720_16451911111.jpg]
The issue
I am having trouble getting the nozzle hot enough, and reading the correct temperature on Pronterface. When measuring the temperature with a meat thermometer (capable of going up to 300C), the measured temperature always seems to read around 30 degrees lower than what is displayed in Pronterface. Also, when touching PLA filament to the head when hot, it melts, but very slow. The extruder struggles to push out molten PLA. The highest temperature I have been able to reach is 240C when measured with a thermometer on the heating block of the extruder nozzle, and PLA still doesn't seem to melt like I would imagine.
Attempted Solutions/What's been checked
-Measured output voltage to be 12 volts on the heater cartridge wires
-Measured E-Temp Output to be 5 volts
-Measured resistance of the E-Temp sensor (EPCOS 100k) at ambient temp of 21.11 C to be ~100K ohms, and in boiling water 100C = 5.3K ohms
-Measured resistance heater cartridge at ambient and in boiling water to be steady around 4 ohms
-Changed Marlin Firmware Thermister Table values between options 1 and 6, and doing the PID autotune for each
-Changed PID Max from 255 to 128, as well as max temp to 300C (per manufacturer website setup instructions)
-Measured Resistance of resistors on board (with no voltage present) to be ~4.5K, pull-up resistors --Although 4.5 is not the desired 4.7k, the bed seems to be reading accurately (20C at ambient temp on pronterface).
-Tried two different batches of black pla, as well as some purple PLA (to make sure it wasn't the material at fault)
Question
The manufacturers website claims the stainless steel doesn't conduct heat as well, so to extrude PLA you will have to run around 220-240C with a fan pointed at the tip. However, even with an actual temp of 240C, the PLA still doesn't seem to melt very easily when touched to the tip. I was able to find a A595 offset calibration in the firmware, and tried messing with it, but I am not using an A595, so I would assume that's why this option did not correct the faulty reading.Overall, I am wondering if anyone has experience or suggestions for getting this nozzle to work? Would I be better off with a simple cheap nozzle?
Thank you for all of your time and efforts, all suggestions are welcome and much appreciated!
-Pat
The excitement is real, I have finally began building a 3D printer. However, after tackling many issues, I still have at least one left before doing a test print.
My current setup is:
-Prusa i2
-MK2 Heatbed
-550W Modified Computer Power Supply
-Sanguinololu Board (I believe 1.2 or 1.3)
-Marlin Firmware
-Geared Extruder
-Prusa Nozzle Hotend, 0.4 tip (stainless steel, see attached picture) .... or - [prusanozzle.org]
-3mm PLA Filament
-Arduino 0022
-Pronterface
[attachment 37029 20140720_16451911111.jpg]
The issue
I am having trouble getting the nozzle hot enough, and reading the correct temperature on Pronterface. When measuring the temperature with a meat thermometer (capable of going up to 300C), the measured temperature always seems to read around 30 degrees lower than what is displayed in Pronterface. Also, when touching PLA filament to the head when hot, it melts, but very slow. The extruder struggles to push out molten PLA. The highest temperature I have been able to reach is 240C when measured with a thermometer on the heating block of the extruder nozzle, and PLA still doesn't seem to melt like I would imagine.
Attempted Solutions/What's been checked
-Measured output voltage to be 12 volts on the heater cartridge wires
-Measured E-Temp Output to be 5 volts
-Measured resistance of the E-Temp sensor (EPCOS 100k) at ambient temp of 21.11 C to be ~100K ohms, and in boiling water 100C = 5.3K ohms
-Measured resistance heater cartridge at ambient and in boiling water to be steady around 4 ohms
-Changed Marlin Firmware Thermister Table values between options 1 and 6, and doing the PID autotune for each
-Changed PID Max from 255 to 128, as well as max temp to 300C (per manufacturer website setup instructions)
-Measured Resistance of resistors on board (with no voltage present) to be ~4.5K, pull-up resistors --Although 4.5 is not the desired 4.7k, the bed seems to be reading accurately (20C at ambient temp on pronterface).
-Tried two different batches of black pla, as well as some purple PLA (to make sure it wasn't the material at fault)
Question
The manufacturers website claims the stainless steel doesn't conduct heat as well, so to extrude PLA you will have to run around 220-240C with a fan pointed at the tip. However, even with an actual temp of 240C, the PLA still doesn't seem to melt very easily when touched to the tip. I was able to find a A595 offset calibration in the firmware, and tried messing with it, but I am not using an A595, so I would assume that's why this option did not correct the faulty reading.Overall, I am wondering if anyone has experience or suggestions for getting this nozzle to work? Would I be better off with a simple cheap nozzle?
Thank you for all of your time and efforts, all suggestions are welcome and much appreciated!
-Pat